A THREAD ABOUT LACE FABRICS
~Lace fabrics & true craftsmanship~
How does anyone actually think of it?
How do you come up with something as beautiful as lace fabrics?
Often floral, organically curly or geometric patterns and other intricate artistic designs, fabric consisting of many threads and stitches over an often-transparent surface…
Nowadays still, of course, a much-loved and worn material used in clothing, couture, luxurious lush lace lingerie, something we truly admire at Pleasurements aswell.
Still deliciously sustainable, the best most gorgeous ones are fair and made in Europe…we at Pleasurements absolutely love that too!
Lace fabric, how do you come up with that?
A petite piece of history
What are lace fabrics?
It basically is an openwork fabric with a decorative web structure.
And it possibly originated from the 15th century.
There is however doubt about where it all started; did it arise in Flanders or in Italy (Venice)?
We know that hand-made Bobbin - and Needle lace were the 2 basic types and each required a different kind of material.
It was used for cuffs, as trims, collars for both women's and men's garments.
It was also used to create doilies and other intricate pieces that were often framed or put behind glass in some other way.
How is it made?
One way to make lace fabrics was by pulling threads of an existing piece of textile through that same fabric and securing it around the opening in all kinds of beautiful ways. This way of decorating fabric became more and more elaborate by pulling more and more threads through the textile until only little of the underlying fabric remained.
Then someone also had the idea of for example only working with just threads and a lot more variations on this type of fabric making came to be.
Later, the weaving machines or looms were invented, which was a cheaper solution for the expensive hand-made industry.
And the machines on which this material was made, often determined the "brand name" of the manufactured lace fabrics…
A little something about 3 mighty worthwhile lace fabrics
Leavers lace is really the most important one and is rightly called the "Queen of lace".
The purest, the most expensive, the most beautiful and most sought after lace fabrics in the couture industry, is made on a Leavers lace loom that was invented in England and transformed by John Levers * in 1813 into the Leavers loom.
Around 1816, during a period of political and economic unrest, the machine also emigrated and landed (illegally) on the European mainland and thus also in Calais, France.
These machines have not been made since then and the production of the current Leavers lace is therefore still made on these old, now very rare original looms.
The delicate, refined, precious Leavers lace is a true art form, mostly still made in Calais and is often referred to as 'Dentelle de Calais' by many designers, or in other words;'Calais lace'.
As indicated above, the precious Leavers lace or Calais lace is used in the couture fashion industry and of course also in the most beautiful, exclusive lingerie collections.
Coco de Mer is one of these luxury lingerie brands that love incorporating it into their divine lace lingerie. We also find a glorious amount of Leavers lace or Dentelle de Calais in the unrivaled beautiful lingerie and nightwear by Marjolaine.
* At a certain point in time, an -a- was added in the name Leavers loom, which was named after John Levers.
Chantilly lace originated in a French town called Chantilly.
This is actually a kind of Leavers lace and still a delicate and high-quality one with a tulle base, but the way this is made is different.
Chantilly lace is woven from top to bottom with a continuous thread.
The fabric is interrupted after each new individual pattern design.
This means that the threads around each design must be trimmed by hand.
It's super delicate, refined and has little relief/relievo and is nowadays the most used lace in the high-end lingerie fashion.
Check out the beautiful lace lingerie by the awesome Tisja Damen at Pleasurements for example; next to Leavers or Dentelle de Calais she also loves using Chantilly lace in her collections.
Guipure is actually a sort of collective name for different laces that have a lot in common.
This is a "heavy" kind with a lot of relief/relievo. Guipure has a lot of structure and contains an open background, so no tulle or other fabric as a background.
A Guipure lace usually has coarse flower patterns that are tied together with threads.
Voilá, a little bit of lace knowledge for you …
Now that we know a smidgen more about these lace-cious, lush fabrics and now that you are of course completely head over heels in love with the art of lace, a visit to the Textile Museum in Tilburg (the Netherlands) could be an absolute delight!
From November 16th, 2019 till May 10th, 2020 there will be an international exhibition called "The Art of Lace" with Leavers lace in the leading role, and featuring creations from the world's most acclaimed fashion houses.
Lace is Ace…
With Love & Lushness,
~ * ~
Images: Pleasurements & Pinterest